Joël

Ah, our favorite place to eat in Paris. L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. We first ate here back in 2004, and this was a chance to catch up again.

The evening got off a little wrong footed however. We sat ignored at the bar (it is all a big sushi bar type place) for about 20 minutes. We almost got up to leave. This was very uncharacteristic of the other times we had eaten here, however, so we stayed. We were rewarded.

We started off with a couple of coupes of Champagne – a Bruno Paillard brut Première Cuveé. Nice, dry, minerals, yeasty. I love Champagne, and we used this time to try and figure out what to order.

The last time we were here they had the same tasting menu, so we decided to order off the menu itself. This is easier said than done. Not because we couldn’t figure it out, but because there was so much from which to choose. (I can’t find a site with the menu. The official Joel Robuchon site seems to be only in Japanese)

The menu is divided into three parts. “Tastings” which give you a small plate that you can share with one, perhaps. Starters, which are what they seem, and main courses. The tasting menu is comprised of a bunch of small dishes, and that is what we have had before. This time we wanted to try something new so we stepped into the main menu.

Originally I was leaning towards a simple dinner of one starter and a main course. Doreen discouraged that, and we each had a starter and three tastings.

We both started with the gazpacho. One of the best tomato soups that you could imagine – smooth and cool, garnished with tiny basil leaves and balsamic vinegar. With it, I had a glass of Colombette 2004 Chardonnay. This was an interesting choice – a big dry white from Languedoc (yes, that’s right). It was a rich French wine done in sort of a new world way. Some oak, some butter, but not overwhelming. Doreen had a Domaine du Comte Lafon 2004 Macon. This was a more typical Chardonnay from Macon (in Burgundy). Minerals and a very good nose.

From there we split up. I started with Fresh Anchovies a la Marine. They were all lined up like little sailors, with a strip of red pepper between each little fish. On top were the rings of a green onion, arranged just so, from the lower left corner of the fish to the upper right corner, in decreasing diameter. If you like anchovies, this is a treat. The essence of the sea comes through.

Doreen had langoustine in ravioli. ONE langoustine. I had a small taste. It was good. (sorry)

Then we moved onto the next course. I had ordered a Red Mullet a la Facon Colbert. I didn’t know it at the time, but this meant with its head on. Fish cheeks are good. The Rouget (red mullet) is a small, firm white fleshed fish.

Doreen had the Pigeon Supreme. (yes, indeed. Pigeon – done rare). I had a taste and it was wonderful. Earthy flavors that just grabbed you and sucked you into the realm of the pigeon worshippers.

I think that it was with this course that Doreen then switched to red wine. I stayed with White – a JM Boillot Chassagne Montrachet – another white Burgundy. This was dry and with good minerals. Classic Chassagne Montrachet. Doreen had a JM Alquier Faugères from southern France. I only had a sip, but she liked it so much she had a second glass with our last course before dessert:

Suckling pig. We had the same thing. Tender, flavorful, and juicy. A nice final course.

We must have had dessert (it is on the bill, though I barely remember it). A rhubarb compote. With that we Doreen had a Klientzler Muscat, and I had a Cauhapé Jurancon Moelleux. My mind numbs.

We staggared home